Few places in the world inspire so much awe, mystery and sense of adventure as Patagonia. Spanning a massive 402,734 square miles (1,043,076 square kilometers) across the countries of Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is covered mostly by steppe-like plains. The weather is unpredictable and harsh at times, but the feeling of being there at the edge of the Earth is truly unriveled. Being in any part of Patagonia is so far removed from everyday life that it has been a hot spot for adventurers and thrill seekers for decades.
Patagonia comes from the word patagón used by Magellan in 1520 to describe the native people of the region. The Europeans considered the indigenous population to be giants, some even describing them as 9 to 12 feet tall! Today, historians are pretty sure the locals were actually the Tehuelches.
Our journey into Patagonia started with a red-eye flight from Easter Island, Chile. Due to weather, our flight from Easter Island was delayed and we almost missed our connecting flight in Santiago, Chile. Being experienced travelers however (travelling with carry-on luggage only), we made it from one plane to the next in under 15 minutes. We ran, but we made it. We arrived in Punta Arenas, Chile at 5:30 am and were greeted by the endless steppes and frigid weather of Patagonia.
Exhausted, but excited…we were ready to get going on this Patagonian adventure. And this is what we encountered:
1. Visit the Magellanic Penguins on Isla Magdalena: The hotel we stayed at in Punta Arenas did not have our room ready that early in the morning, so we spontaneously decided to go and visit the Magellanic penguins near by. We went to a tour company and they didn’t take us because they were fully booked. We were kind of bummed out, but oh well, we moved on. We decided to go ahead and pay for our day tour for the following day to visit the King Penguins on Tierra Del Fuego. While at the second tour company, we mentioned to the travel agent there that we were disappointed to not see the Magellanic penguins, since all tour companies were fully booked. She proceeded to tell us, that you didn’t need a tour company to see them, you could just take the ferry on your own…what? Excellent! In a matter of minutes we garbed a cab and we were off to the ferry terminal.
It was cold, windy and rainy, but we were very excited to get our tickets and impatiently waited to embark on our journey to Isla Magdalena. Once on the ferry, it took about 2 hours to get to the island. The ride was bumpy at times due to rough waters, but the view was also quite stunning when the seas were calm.
Finally, we made it to Isla Magdalena and we were instantly greeted by the sight and sound of approximately 120,000 Magellanic penguins scattered around the island.
These cute, little creatures are about a foot tall and they are quite clumsy. They love digging in the dirt and fishing. You are not allowed to touch them, but you can see them up close since they run around everywhere. They did not seem afraid of people.
2. See the King Penguin colony on Tierra del Fuego, Chile: The next day we had booked a tour to see the second largest penguin species after the Emperor Penguin. Not too long ago this colony decided to return to Chilean Patagonia and they appear to be there to stay. Parque Pingüino Rey on Useless Bay, Tierra del Fuego is one of the few places in the world where you can easily see these majestic creatures. Getting there was quite a journey! Leaving Punta Areans, Chile early in the morning to take the ferry across the Strait of Magellan to Porvenir followed by a two hour drive across the Patagonian steppes. During our drive we encountered many of the locals alpacas.
Finally, we arrived! Quite frigid temperatures and strong winds, but completely worth it .
Only separated from us by a small stream, these beautiful “Happy Feet” greeted us with their high pitched squawking sounds.
While the adult King Penguins have beautiful black and white coats with yellow around the neck, the baby King Penguins are furry, brown and and not so well polished. We wished we could hug one, but of course that would be against all laws and accompanied by huge fines and imprisonment. So, we just enjoyed the view!
3. Spend some time in Puerto Natales, Chile: Previously just a fishing port, this colorful, little town in Southern Patagonia is now the gateway to some of the most iconic areas of Patagonia. Puerto Natales is now a popular hub for adventurers and thrill seekers from around the world. It offers amazing culinary options as well as boutique beer and fine wine tastings. Torres Del Paine National Park and the Ultima Esperanza are two of the most popular destinations in the area. From the stunning mountains and lakes to the incredible glaciers, you have access to all of it.
4. Experience the beauty of Torres Del Paine National Park: This iconic national park is famous for its stunning view of the Cuernos (the horns), which are the centerpiece of this impressive national park. These granite mountain peaks are shaped like horns and visible from most areas of the park and surrounding areas. Just 70 miles (112 km) from Puerto Natales, it is easily accessible by car. You can choose to spend one day touring the park or multiple days trekking this amazing natural wonder. Visiting the park will leave you with unforgettable memories of the majestic mountains, stunning blue glaciers, icebergs, crystal clear lakes, waterfalls and a wide array of wild animals. It lies in a transition area between the Magellanic sub-polar forest and the Patagonian steppes, thus offering a beautiful combination of both.
5. Take a boat tour to Glacier Grey: While visiting Torres Del Paine National Park, we decided to take the opportunity to go and see a glacier for the first time in our lives. After a short hike through the forest and across a river…
…we finally saw them…the icebergs…wow!
They were more impressive than what we could ever imagine. The deep blue color was surreal. The icebergs were enormous and just peacefully floated around the lake. The color of the water, as you may notice is grey, almost cloudy. That is due to the sediments from the eroding glacial rocks. The small particles make the water appear milky. Glacier Grey has so much sediment that there is hardly any life in its waters. The journey to the glacier began by embarking on an awesome red boat.
Slowly we made our way towards Glacier Grey, surrounded by giant icebergs and grand mountains. From far away it looked amazing, but the closer we got the more unbelievable the view became. At last, standing in front of the massive blue wall we realized just how insignificantly tiny we are as human beings compared to what mother nature has to offer. Absolutely breathtaking!
6. Visit the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers: Seno Última Esperanza, (‘Last Hope Sound’) is an inlet, named in 1557 by Juan Ladrillero. He felt that in this direction was his last chance to reach the Strait of Magellan, however he reached a dead end at the glacier. This three hour boat journey from Puerto Natales takes you on a beautiful journey along fjords, waterfalls and occasional estancias (private landholdings, similar to a cattle ranch). Both glaciers are quite impressive, even though all we were able to see, is just a very small piece of the actual ice field.
7. Have lunch at a Patagonian estancia: No journey to Patagonia is complete without visiting an estancia, which is similar to a cattle ranch. It is a large piece of land used by the owner live stock holding and some agriculture. Some of the estancias are set in the most beautiful locations, surrounded by pure nature. We stopped at such a ranch and were welcomed by the owners with a delicious lunch. Our multi-course meal included some of the local specialties like lamb as wells other meats, poultry, vegetables, and of course local wine!. What a splendid day!
8. Enjoy the view of the Andes from a Jacuzzi: After a long and “tough” day of being outside sightseeing out-of-this-world glaciers in the cold and wintry weather it is only fair to come back into town and relax. There is nothing like sitting in a warm Jacuzzi by a warm firewood stove, overlooking the mind-blowing view of the Patagonian snow capped mountains. Not every hotel has that amenity, but staying at the Hotel Indigo Patagonia, we did and we felt so lucky to have had the opportunity to experience it.
9. Take the bus to El Calafate, Argentina: Now that you have seen parts of Chilean Patagonia, it is time to check out Argentinian Patagonia. There are daily buses from Puerto Natales, Chile to El Calafate, Argentina. The bus ride is about 4-5 hours (depending on how long it takes to cross the border between Chile and Argentina). El Calafate is a beautiful town in the province of Santa Cruz and is mainly known for being the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park. We truly enjoyed the small town and we ended up at some wonderful local restaurants where we tried Patagonian wine for the first time. Cheers! We also found a local empanada shop and as expected, ate excessive amounts of empanadas! Don’t judge, you would have done the same thing!
10. Trek the Perito Moreno Glacier: Perito Moreno is probably the reason you came here. It is one of 48 glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. It is a massive 97 sq mile (250 sq km) ice formation. While most glaciers in the world are retreating, Perito Moreno is actually growing and the reason for that is hotly debated. Being one of the largest, it is also one of the easiest accessible glaciers in the world. Located less than two hours by bus from El Calafate, right below the visitor center, you will be captivated by the pure mass of ice. Listen closely! Do you hear the cracking sound of the ice? You are about to witness one of the most exhilarating sights on earth, the breaking off of an iceberg from the glacier, while graciously plunging into the water. Trust us! It is unlike anything you have ever seen and heard before. It will leave you wanting more!
Are you feeling adventurous? Fantastic! Take a mini trekking tour on the glacier. We did it not knowing what to expect and we were enthralled. After taking a short boat ride across the inlet and a short hike to the get close to the glacier, it was time to get ready.
First, we had to put on crampons over our boots, so we could climb up the ice. Safety first! Going through the dirt with those was not easy, but we were thankful to have them once we got on the ice.
Initially slow, but then we got the hang of it and suddenly we found ourselves looking at this…Heart-Stopping!
And it only got more fascinating from here. The blues got bluer and the ice peaks more astonishing. To the human eye, ancient glacial ice acts like a filter. It absorbs red and yellow light and reflects blue light. This is what creates the beautiful blue hues of a glacier. Why does snow appear white then? Because the ice it is full of air bubbles.
At the end of the tour, we were surprised with a glass of local whiskey chilled with glacier ice…literally, our tour guide chopped up some ice from the glacier, put it in our whiskey glasses and poured us a drink. And of course, as a real Argentinian would do, we had to have alfajores (soft, delicate cookie from South America often filled and covered with chocolate or caramel) with the whiskey! Sweet! We don’t usually drink whiskey, but this definitely hit the right spot!
And here is what we take away from our Patagonian experience, it is indeed a one-of-a-kind place. It is mind-blowing in so many ways, from the natural beauty of the area to the local wild life, it is nothing short of astounding. In everyday life, we have to go to the zoo to see what lives there naturally and believe us, there is nothing more beautiful than to see animals in their natural habitat. Unlike visiting a large metropolitan city where we are fascinated by architectural man-made structures, Patagonia leaves us astounded by mother nature’s natural beauty. Being there, you become a witness to a process that has been going on for millions of years and you get to take home a memory that has been in the making for eons. If you have ever debated whether to visit Patagonia or not, just go! There is no question!
